Last summer we took on a big European trip.
Three weeks. Three countries. Mountains, bike paths, old towns, sleeper trains, farm animals, and swimming in the Adriatic every single day.
My oldest son was studying in Europe for the summer, which felt like the perfect excuse for us to be on the same continent. This time, the trip was with a family of four instead of five.
We covered a lot of ground, but it never felt hectic. There was always time to swim, wander, and just enjoy being there.
Here’s the exact route we took, where we stayed, how we moved between places, and what it cost.
Our Route
- Fly into Rome – pick up rental car, drive 6 hours to farmstay
- One week Dolomites farm stay near Bolzano
- One week in Austria (Lienz and Graz)
- Overnight sleeper train to Split, Croatia
- One week in Split
- Flight to Naples – train to Rome
- 2 nights in Rome
- Fly home from Rome
I’ll be sharing full day-by-day itineraries for each stop in separate posts so you can see exactly how we planned our time.
How We Moved Between Places
- Rental car in Italy to explore the Dolomites
- Trains and cycling through Austria
- Overnight sleeper train from Graz to Split
- Ferries, boats, and walking through Split
- Flight from Split to Naples – train to Rome
- Home
Where We Stayed and Why
Italy Farm Stay, Dolomites (7 nights) – $1,575 CAD
We wanted to be close to Bolzano but actually in the mountains, and this farm stay was about a 25-minute drive from the city in the heart of the Dolomites. Vineyards, winding roads, and stunning scenery!
Because my husband was working remotely for this first week, I knew we’d be spending more time at our accommodation than usual. So this couldn’t just be a place to sleep. It had to be part of the trip.
And it was.
This working farm had goats, bunnies, and chickens the kids could help feed, plus a pool, ping pong table, trampoline, foosball, ride-on toys, and huge open space to run. Every morning we would go out either on a hike or to Bolzano and then be back by around 2pm when my husband had to start work. There were four other families staying there at the same time, all with kids, and we ended up chatting with parents from Germany every evening. This region of Italy speaks both German and Italian, which made it feel very unique culturally.
Our apartment had two bedrooms, a kitchen, living area, and a private patio with a BBQ. The kids could run out the front door and be in the pool in seconds.
I would stay here again without hesitation. In fact, this is the kind of place I’d love to return to with extended family so everyone could have their own apartment but still share the experience together!
You can view this stay HERE.
If this one is unavailable, here are similar family-friendly options in the same area:
Lienz, Austria (6 nights) – $2,023 CAD
We chose Lienz because our plan was to bike part of the Drau Cycle Path every day, and this town sits perfectly along the route I wanted to do. We were arriving by train, so I specifically looked for a place where we could walk from the station without needing a taxi. Harry’s Home was about a 15-minute walk, which is exactly why we always travel carry-on only.
This stay was more than we would normally spend at about $337 CAD per night, but in the end it felt worth it for the location, the room setup for our family, and how easy everything was.
The hotel is very used to guests taking advantage of the mountains, so they had a large secure storage room for bikes. We rented bikes for the week and were able to store them there no problem.
One of the biggest reasons I booked in Lienz was that the town has one of the most beautiful outdoor pools I’ve ever seen and it’s just a 10-minute walk from the hotel. Set against the backdrop of the Austrian Alps we spent several afternoons there and the kids loved it!
Our room was ideal for a family. A queen bed for us, bunk beds for the kids, a little kitchenette with a stovetop, fridge, and microwave, plus a large outdoor patio deck. There were also a few grocery stores nearby, which made self-catering very easy.
Breakfast wasn’t included. When we arrived, our room wasn’t ready yet, so they gave us complimentary breakfast vouchers for the first morning. After that, we paid for it once because it was honestly one of the best hotel breakfasts we’ve ever had! It wasn’t cheap, but with the views of the Lienz Dolomites out the window, it felt like an experience on its own.
We were also just a short walk from the centre of town, which had plenty of shops and restaurants and felt lively without being overwhelming.
You can view this stay HERE.
If this one is unavailable, here are similar family-friendly options in the same area:
Ferienwohnung in der Sonnenstadt Lienz
City Zimmer – Appartement Dina Mariner
Graz, Austria (1 night) – $243 CAD
We weren’t originally planning to visit Graz. This stop happened because of weather and a bit of a last-minute decision.
It was raining for the final two days of our stay in Lienz, and instead of spending another day inside the hotel, we decided to leave early and head to Graz, which is where our overnight train to Croatia was departing from anyway.
I hate wasting money, and we had already paid for our accommodation in Lienz. But I hate wasting TIME even more. I didn’t want to sit in a hotel room all day on a European trip.
So I found the Grand Hotel Wiesler in Graz, and I immediately loved it.
The hotel is right in the centre of the city, about a 20-minute walk from the train station. Everything we wanted to see was within walking distance. The building itself is beautiful and historic, with photos on the walls of famous people who have stayed there over the years. Our room and bathroom were very spacious for a hotel which was great!
Right outside the door are cafés and restaurants, and the hotel has its own restaurant as well.
After visiting Graz, I honestly wish we had planned two nights here. It felt like a major hidden gem in Europe, and we absolutely loved it.
For being in the heart of the city, I thought the nightly rate was very reasonable.
You can view this stay HERE.
If this one is unavailable, here are similar family-friendly options in the same area:
Overnight Sleeper Train from Graz to Split (1 night) – $571 (CAD)
Instead of a hotel, we took an overnight sleeper train from Graz to Split. The kids loved this part of the trip. We booked a private compartment with bunks, fell asleep in Austria, and woke up in Croatia!
It saved us the cost of a hotel night and turned a travel day into an experience.
I’ll be sharing more details about how we booked this and what it was like in a separate post.
Split, Croatia (7 nights) – $1,724 CAD
For Split, I wanted somewhere we’d be comfortable for a full week. Close to the main areas, but not right in the middle of the noise and crowds.
This Airbnb was about a 15-minute walk from all the action of Split, which turned out to be perfect. We could walk everywhere easily but still come back to a quiet space at night.
The apartment itself felt like stepping into a grandma’s house. Very vintage, very lived-in. That might not appeal to everyone, but I absolutely loved the charm of it.
We were greeted at the door by the owner, who didn’t speak any English. But with big smiles, hugs, and a bit of guessing, we figured out everything we needed to know. She had left ice cream in the freezer for the kids and cookies and baked goods for us, which immediately made it feel like home.
The apartment had two bedrooms and a kitchen. There wasn’t a living room, but every night we’d sit around the kitchen table and play cards together. There was also a little balcony where we could sit outside and hang laundry to dry.
It felt simple, welcoming, and exactly the kind of place that makes you feel like you’re living in a real neighbourhood instead of staying in a tourist zone.
You can view this stay HERE.
If this one is unavailable, here are similar family-friendly options in the same area:
Rome, Italy (2 nights) – $560 CAD + $65 tourist tax
We had originally planned to visit a different part of Italy at the end of this trip, but at the last minute decided to go back to Rome. We had visited in 2022 and loved it, and this time I wanted to experience the city without feeling like we had to do all the major tourist sights again. Just walking, eating, and enjoying Rome.
I would have loved to stay at the same Airbnb we used on our last trip, but it wasn’t available. So I started looking for something very central, affordable, and good enough for two nights. I wasn’t sure that combination existed, but it did.
We found Hotel Panda.
It’s a 2-star hotel, so set your expectations accordingly, but for two nights it was completely fine. The location was incredible, literally just around the corner from the Spanish Steps. There was so much to see right outside the door, and the subway was only a five-minute walk away.
Breakfast was included. It wasn’t amazing, but again, we were paying about $166 CAD per night in high season. I’d much rather spend money on a great meal in Rome than on a hotel room.
For a short stay in a prime location, it did exactly what we needed it to do.
You can view this stay HERE.
If this one is unavailable, here are similar family-friendly options in the same area:
What Made This Trip Amazing for Kids
- Feeding animals on a farm & swimming every day in the Dolomites
- Hiking the Dolomites, exploring the Alpe di Siusi
- Biking along rivers in Austria
- Swimming in public pools with Alpine views in Austria
- Taking an overnight sleeper train – always a hit with kids!
- Swimming in the Adriatic every day
- Gelato in historic squares every night in every country!
Rough Cost Breakdown
- Accommodation: $6,125 CAD
- Transportation: (car rental, trains, sleeper train, flight Split to Naples, gondolas, bike rentals, ferries and a couple of Uber rides) $3911 CAD
- Food: groceries & eating out $3331
- Activities: bikes, pools, boat tour, sightseeing $1606
- Miscellaneous: Travel insurance, souvenirs, beach toys, etc. $614
Our trip was 3 weeks 2 days. The total without our flights from Calgary, Alberta was $15,587 (our flights were $3340 CAD fyi).
*I actually consider this an epic failure for keeping on budget but I’ll break that down in a separate upcoming post.
Who This Trip Itinerary Is Perfect For
Families who like:
- Adventure mixed with history
- Nature and mountains
- Walkable old towns
- Swimming, hiking and biking
- Trains instead of flights
- Slow travel with variety
Posts Coming Soon
I’ll be writing detailed posts about:
- Our Dolomites farm stay
- Hiking the Dolomites with Kids
- Biking the Drau Cycle Path with Kids
- Taking the Overnight Sleeper Train from Austria to Croatia
- The Croatia itinerary I wish we did
- Why this trip went over budget (and what I’d do differently next time)
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